Removing links/ Installing
Disconnects : YJ
Installation and writeup by Derek Smith
Welcome to the exciting world of putting Sway Bar
Disconnects on your YJ. This write up is going to be split into 4 different
sections: Tools, Prep, Removal, and Installation.
First off, a small disclaimer- these are the tools that
I used. I have a lot of tools. I used to work at a pawn shop and bought tools
for pennies on the dollar. I know not everyone will have everything that I have,
so either make due, or go buy some.
Grease (any lithium or multi use grease will do)
Torch (with a full cylinder of either MAPP
Gas or Propane)
19mm or 3/4" Gear Wrench (If you don't have a gear wrench go buy a set, they are
worth it in the long run)
Medium Size Vise Grips
BFH- at least a 4 lb hammer
Tie Rod Separator/ Pickle Fork (This Item is an absolute necessity, I would
never do another set without one. The are available for less than $10 at your
local auto parts store.) They look like this
Big Floor Jack
Scissor Jack (The factory YJ Jack)
Bottle Jack (2 ton or so)
Prep Part 1: PB Blaster 2 times a day for 2 days prior, more if you have time. A
good idea is to start blasting them the day that you order them, then when they
get there you can start.
Prep Part 2: Jack up your front end and take the tires off. MAKE SURE THAT YOU
USE JACK STANDS TO SUPPORT THE WIEGHT OF YOUR JEEP. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR JACKS
ARE IN GOOD SHAPE AND IN THE CORRECT POSITION.
Prep Part 3: Do this right before you start beating on
anything. Only use the torch if you have new bushings for your new sway bar
links. Jack up your front end and take the tires off. Remove the pin (w/
needle nose pliers) and Caster Nut (w/19mm Wrench) from the TOP bolt. Use the
linesman pliers to straighten the pin back out. Take your torch, I used Mapp Gas
(be very careful of your brake lines, they don't like the heat). You want to
torch the bushing that holds on the link. Try and concentrate on the side of the
link that is closest to the actual swaybar. Burn it for at least 5 minutes. You
want the bushing to start sparking. You are trying to melt the bushing far
enough to get your pickle fork in.
torch where I am pointing.
Take your bottle jack and jack up the U-Bolt Plate enough to relieve the
pressure off of the BOTTOM of the stock link. To remove the links first remove
the BOTTOM nut off of the swaybar link from the U-Bolt plates on BOTH SIDES
(w/19mm Wrench). You may need the pry bar to get the links loose. Make sure and
do both bottoms- you will see why later.
NUT/LEAF SPRING U-BOLT PLATE
After the bottom is off, take your pickle for and position it at the 0 O'Clock
position of the top of the burnt bushing. Now beat the heck out of the end of
the pickle fork, hammering downwards. The fork needs to be at least halfway down
the retaining bolt. Now pull and push, pull and push. You have to put all of
your weight into it. Eventually the link will come off. IT WILL BE HOT, DON'T
TOUCH IT WITH BARE HANDS. Place the link/bolt somewhere it can cool (H20).
Repeat on the other side.
After you have both links off, place them on a flat surface and hammer the bolts
out of the stock links. NOTE THE WAY THAT THE LINK IS FACING BEFORE YOU HAMMER
THE BOLT OUT. This should only take 1 or 2 hits. On the same flat surface apply
some grease to the inside of the bushing of the new links. Then tap the bolts in
to the new links with the link facing the same direction that the stock link
Place the top bolt in first. The bottom of the link probably will not line up
with the threads on the U-Bolt plate. Get your scissor jack out and wedge it
underneath the swar bar and start jacking slowly. You need to get the bottom
link to line up with the threads on the U-Bolt plate. it should be easy to do,
since you should have removed both swaybar links earlier. Now screw on the
caster nut and start to tighten it (w/19mm Wrench). The head of the bolt facing
you should be held in place with the vise grips. Once the caster nut in on
really tight, place the pin back through the bolt with the needle nose pliers.
Then tighten down the washer and nut on the lower link.
Use a little bit of anti-sieze on your lug nuts when you put your wheel back on
and you're all set.
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